Battlegrounds

beach at St. Aubin in Normandy signs for St. Aubin in Normandy Bayeux in Normandy beach at Cannes

Battlegrounds Tour

Tour Introduction

U.S. graves in Normandy

The Somme instantly brings images of black and white photos and film reel of brave soldiers going "over the top" of their trenches into the fierce oncoming fire in the vain hope of advancing a few yards. The Somme landscape is littered with cemeteries and memorials dedicated to the millions who lost their lives during what is known as the Great War - World War One.

Today, the Somme region is dedicated to the lasting memory of the fallen and with the 100 Year Anniversary fast approaching, now is the time to visit and see with your own eyes the very landscape in which so much was lost.

The Somme however, also contains some of nature's best work with large nature reserves, wild coastlines, picturesque harbours and serene bays. Centuries old towns and villages dot the landscape and many church and cathedral towers can be seen from miles around including the world's largest, the Cathedral Notre Dame at Amiens.

Continuing the tour southwards into the Normandy region, gives you the opportunity to wander amongst the landscape of what is arguably a defining moment of the 20th century - the D-Day landings. The 6th June 1944 saw the Allies of Great Britain, Canada, the United States and many other countries land on these very beaches to rid Europe of the Nazi regime. With intense fighting against almost impossible odds, soldiers from across the world took a foothold on these beaches and slowly advanced through the countryside, fighting for every inch of land.

The Normandy region is full of memorials, cemeteries, museums and monuments dedicated to the brave soldiers who came to liberate France, and ultimately Europe just 60 years ago. Normandy however, has so much more to offer. It is home to famous ciders and liquors, historical tapestries, stunning cathedrals, fantastic coastlines, wonderful fishing villages and seaside resorts and produces one of the world's most famous cheeses.

Stay 1. Picardy – recommend 5 days

Local Map of Picardy area highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.

beach at Calais

Spend 5 days at the southern edge of the Côte d'Opale in the quaint seaside town of St Valéry-sur-Somme and begin with a stroll through the delightful harbour side alongside the River Somme. Have lunch in the narrow Rue de la Ferte with its cafés and restaurants. Try the local Ficelle Picarde (ham and mushrooms) before heading to the Chemin de Fer de la Baie de Somme for a steam train journey around the wonderful Somme Estuary. Enjoy a few hours at the seaside resort of Le Crotoy before jumping on the train for the return journey back to St Valéry. In the evening, head out to some more seaside resorts of Cayeaux-sur-Mer, Eu, or Le Treport for a wonderful seafood platter.

For a truly memorable day, head inland to the regions around Albert and Peronne and walk amongst the cemeteries, battlefields, memorials and monuments of World War One. At Beaumont Hamel, walk through the trenches and peer over the top at the bomb cratered landscape. You will soon see how close these trenches were and what terrible conditions these soldiers endured. Have a look at the impressive Ulster Tower only a short drive away which stands in honour of the Ulster Regiment. At Thiepval, the impressive monument towers over the landscape and is dedicated to the British amongst others. Inscribed onto the monument are the names of the fallen and missing. Names are often added or changed as more bodies are still found in the surrounding hills. No visit to this part of the Somme is complete without visiting the picturesque market town of Albert where you can have lunch within view of the picturesque town hall or the majestic town square.

To head back even further into history, head north from St Valéry to the little village of Azincourt, a name familiar to most of us as the place where the famous Battle of Agincourt took place, a crucial battle in the Hundred Years War and the first time that the English started using longbows with great success. This battlefield is also central to the famous William Shakespeare play, Henry V. Little remains of this battlefield, but the local museums give a great insight into what exactly happened on the 24th October 1415.

If you fancy a quieter day, nothing can be more refreshing than a stroll along some of the wonderful beaches that make the Côte d'Opale, running for 100 miles towards Calais. On some days, the wind can be refreshing and opportunistic kite surfers and wind surfers adorn the coast. On other days, the wind and sea are calm and the wide expanses of beach gives everyone their own private paradise to sit in the sun and relax.

Recommended parcs: St Valéry

Stay 2. Eastern Normandy – recommend 3 days

Local Map of Eastern Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.

harbour at Honfleur in Normandy

Spending a few days in this part of Normandy gives you a base to explore some of France's finest secrets as well as paying tribute to the heroes of that tumultuous event - D-Day. Firstly, take in the starting point for D-Day with a visit to Pegasus Bridge and have a coffee in the Café Gondrée, the first building liberated by the Allies. Chances are you will be served by Madame Gondrée herself, daughter of Monsieur and Madame Gondrée, the first French citizens freed by British forces. Across the road is the original Pegasus Bridge, so-called in honour of the British 6th Airborne Division who on the night of the 5th/6th June 1944, after flying gliders into nearby fields and just 164 metres from the bridge, alighted and after surprising the Germans, took the bridge in just 20 minutes. The first success of a very eventful day. As you walk across the bridge, notice the bullet holes where the first soldier Lieutenant Den Brotheridge gave his life on this day and at the end, climb into a Horsa Glider to see how these gliders flew so well, with so little equipment.

For pure indulgence and for a glimpse into modern day Normandy, a visit to Deauville is a must. With names such as Ralph Lauren or Louis Vuitton, high quality restaurants and a stunning casino and promenade, Deauville is a town to live the high life. In September, Deauville becomes the "Cannes of the North" with its American Film Festival. Recent attendees have included Harrison Ford and Tom Hanks and the festival is taken very seriously by the movie industry. Also, the Hippodrome is one of France's premier horse racing venues and is often the setting for France's most prestigious racing.

Whilst in Deauville, make sure you hop across the river to its sister town of Trouville, the perfect antidote to all that high living, or better still head a little further east to the gorgeous Honfleur - an artist's paradise. This small fishing village has inspired the likes of Gustave Courbet, Johan Jongkind and Claude Monet. Famous Honfleurais include Alphonse Allais, writer and humorist; Eugene Boudin, painter; Christopher Rocancourt, impostor and con artist; and finally possibly its most famous resident Erik Satie, musician.

Spend a full day in the regional capital -Caen. This university town was effectively destroyed in June and July 1944, but thanks to the very accurate aiming of the British Navy, the two stunning cathedrals, remained largely intact. The gothic Abbeye aux Hommes (1063) built by William the Conquerer and Abbaye aux Dames (1600), are impressive in their design and dominate the city landscape. Also worth a visit, is the impressive castle, Chateau de Caen and the sombre Le Memorial, one of France's best museums.

Recommended parc: Houlgate

Stay 3. Central Normandy – recommend 3 days

Local Map of Central Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.

Bayeux tapestry exhibition

To get a feel for the region, head towards Courseulles-sur-Mer, central to the Canadian landing beaches (Juno Beach) and take lunch amongst the many seaside cafés and restaurants. After lunch, have a walk across the seafront and notice how little cover there is between the sea and the town and imagine the soldiers alighting from their landing craft into direct fire from the enemy.

Alternatively, head a little further west towards the town of Arromanche-les-Bains. Central to the British landing beach and home to the amazing Mulberry Harbours which can still be seen today. Arromanche-les-Bains and the Mulberry Harbour were crucial to the success of the entire invasion as thousands of tonnes of supplies, ammunition and many more troops came through this tiny town en route to the frontline. Make sure you visit the 6 Juin 1944 and Arromanche 360 museums for a very in depth look at this day. For the evening, why not try a seafood special in the seaside towns of Luc-sur-Mer, Lion-sur-Mer or St Aubin-sur-Mer, with its fine selection of restaurants serving quality, locally caught produce.

For a very full day, head a little further west and see how difficult the Americans task was in trying to land at Omaha Beach. Of the 5 beaches (Juno, Gold, Sword, Omaha and Utah), Omaha Beach proved the most deadly and almost failed. Trapped between high cliffs and the sea, the American Rangers faced impossible odds against stiff German resistance. This is nowhere more clearly illustrated than at Pointe du Hoc, where the cliff juts out into the sea and the landscape is completely covered in bomb craters. The whole success of D-Day rested with the success of this beach landing and fortunately, by the end of the 6th June, the Americans had a very slim, but crucial grip on this beach.

A must on any visit to this part of the landing beaches, is the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. To see the thousands of white marble headstones is a truly memorable sight and with all the pomp and splendour that Americans rightly adorn their soldiers, it is a breathtaking experience.

To complete the day, have your evening meal in the picturesque fishing port of Port-en-Bessin. Home to a small fishing fleet, you are guaranteed the freshest seafood with some of the most picturesque views possible. If you have the energy, climb the steep cliff nearby and watch a wonderful sunset over the English Channel. Whilst D-Day has a large bearing on Normandy history, and rightly so, there is so much more to see and do in this region.

Why not visit the cathedral town ofBayeux. The first town liberated by the Allies has a picturesque shopping district where the casual stroller will come across cafés, markets, riverside restaurants and wonderful gardens. Bayeux is most famous for its tapestry depicting life in Normandy almost 1000 years ago and culminating in the Battle of Hastings. English Language headsets are available and give excellent commentary as you wander through the exhibition. Look out for Haley's Comet as well as King Harold and the infamous arrow through the eye! Whilst in Bayeux, make sure you visit the British and Commonwealth Cemetery, not as full of ceremony and splendour as the American, but is instead a beautiful and befitting setting where the peace and quiet seriously make visitors contemplate the events of the past.

When you want to escape from it all, the Normandy countryside offers a perfect setting. Here amongst the farms of Normandy, many micro-breweries are perfecting the local speciality - Calvados. A strong and refreshing drink made from local apple orchards. Alternatively, everyone has heard of Normandy's most famous export - Camembert. No after-dinner cheeseboard is complete without this world quality cheese and nowhere is better to buy it, than direct from the farmer himself.

For some excellent walking or cycling, try "Suisse Normandie", a region of Normandy a little further inland and a lot hillier than by the coast or alternatively the "Pays d'Auge" which is the agricultural heart of Normandy.

Recommended parc: St Aubin-sur-Mer

Stay 4. Western Normandy – recommend 3 days

Local Map of Western Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.

Arromanches in Normandy

To complete your tour of the major battlefields of northern France, you must visit the small village of Sainte-Mère-Église. It was here that the 82nd American Airborne Division parachuted into the area and where the unfortunate Private John Steel was caught on the church steeple, only to watch the events unfold beneath him, as portayed in the film "The Longest Day". Make sure you visit the Airborne Museum located opposite the church where a dummy paratrooper still hangs from the belfry today.

In contrast, the sombre German cemetery at La Cambe just south Sainte-Mère-Église is a must for D-Day visitors. With the hugely difficult task of honouring the dead without any form of ceremony reminds visitors that many more Germans died during the Battle of Normandy than the Allies. Going further back into history, no visit to western Normandy is complete without crossing the tidal causeway and wandering the old streets of Mont St Michel. Possibly one of the most iconic images of medieval France. Visiting the Benedictine Monastery is a must as are a wander though the old streets, gardens and cloisters.

Just up the road from the parc is the seaside resort of Granville. From here, jump onto a ferry and spend a few hours back in Britain, not the mainland though, this will be the Channel Islands where you will see usual British life, but with a distinct Gallic touch. Remember that the Channel Islands are "tax free". For some more retail therapy, head south to Rennes, the commercial heart of neighbouring Brittany where you can shop for all of your essentials before returning to the UK.

Recommended parc: St Pair-sur-Mer

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